Friday, October 2, 2026

MORDIDAS, COFFEE, AGAVE, STORMS AND TIDAL WAVES - Queretaro to Coatzacoalcos

 

MORDIDAS, COFFEE, AGAVE, STORMS AND TIDAL WAVES

Both of us woke up way to early this morning.  We both alternated hitting the bathroom around 3am and then couldn’t quite get back to sleep.  At 5am, we gave up and got up and started getting ready.  We were out the door and on the road by 530am.  It was still raining but not as hard as the day before.  We stopped for gas and Lorie got me my first coffee since last Wednesday.  To say the least, I was hyped up on caffeine almost all day but have a headache now.  We made our way around Queretaro and out to the toll road that would take us around Mexico City.  For some reason google redirected us through this little town, but when we came out we were going under the highway I wanted and past all the traffic backed up.  We went up the side and ended up jumping the line from where we would have been.  We should have listened yesterday when it wanted to redirect us and we would not have sat in traffic all day.    The rain finally stopped and we were making good time until we approached a toll booth.

A transit officer flagged us down and made us pull over.  I showed him my import permit for the jeep and had the permits for the trailer.  He informed me that according to their program “no hay circula”, I could not be driving on the highway on that day.  I continued to question him as it was my understanding that this only applied to driving within the Mexico City limits and not on the toll highways.  While he was typing a translation back to me, I looked it up on google and supposedly it did apply to the state highways as well.  Well shit, I had not read or heard anything about it being the whole state.  He was telling me that I had already committed the offence and the penalty would be $4000 pesos plus the cost of a tow and impound.  Of course I’m not letting that happen.  I asked him if I paid the fine did I get a ticket and receipt of payment or is he looking for a mordida.  He laughed.  If I wanted to pay it, I would have to go to some town god knows where and I would still have to pay the impound and tow fees.  Then I asked what the mordida would cost and it was $100 USD.  He said he would give me a safe passage ticket so that I wasn’t bothered by others.  I don’t agree with paying the bribes but I also wasn’t going to let them hook everything I own up and tow it away, while leaving the 3 of us on the side of the road.  So, he wrote his note on a hot pink sticky note and I gave him the money and we were gone.  The next toll booth we went through, I was stopped on the far side and gave him the note and it worked.  Away we continued.  Of course, the whole conversation was caught on camera.  He tried to move out of frame and Lorie moved him back into the video.  She also made sure that when she handed him the money that it was visible and not completely discreet.

 

Off we went and I missed an exit and ended up taking a detour through another town.  Mind you it was supposedly shorter.  Lorie was busy snapping pics along the way and found fields of agave and then she decided to go shopping for jeans on the side of the road.  She wanted to stop as they were only $10 and she could make cutoffs with them.

We hit Veracruz and the weather was changing.  The view coming through the hills and down the switchbacks were not as nice as it would have been in the sun but at least the rain didn’t really start until we hit the bottom.  When we got past Cordoba the road turn to shit.  It didn’t matter which way I tried to avoid the potholes and bumps; I still hit the, the poor dog was going insane due to the noise and bumps.  During all of this we encountered torrential downpours to further decrease the speed we were travelling. Finally we were about a kilometer from our turnoff and another stoppage.   This time an accident and a pretty bad one at that.  It was a double trailer that jack knifed in the road and the cab of the truck was hanging off the side completely off the engine, as well as a car and an SUV.  I hope all are okay.



We finally got to our exit but now it is dark.  The road into town was fairly narrow (at least in the dark and downpour it seemed that way) as well as marked with topes (speedbumps).  I crept along with my hazards as it was near impossible to see.  We finally got into town and there was flooding everywhere.  I hit one section and a tidal wave of water flowed over the front of the Jeep and all around us.  It scared Lorie the first time I did it and any other car backed off.

We got to our hotel and settled in, both of us had a hot shower and I made my rounds of phone calls and started this.  Tomorrow we should hit Progreso by dinner time but we are starting early again.

So, until Sunday morning (as I don’t thing I will be writing tomorrow night)

Hasta luego.

 

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